Toggle menu
Have a Question?
- Made in our Los Angeles shop.
- Ships within 5-7 business days.
- These frames are as simple as can be. They provide a basic border around your art, with no space between the art and the frame.
- Very similar to our floater frames but without the float.
- Available in 3 profiles to accommodate artwork of different depths:
- 1.5" deep with a 5/16" Rabbet - Ideal for panels up to 1/4" deep. Available in Doug Fir only.
- 1.5" deep with a 13/16" Rabbet - Ideal for panels or stretched canvases up to 3/4" deep. Available in Doug Fir only.
- 2" deep with a 1.5" Rabbet - Ideal for panels or stretched canvases up to 1.5" deep. Available in Doug Fir, Maple, Black-matte, and in White.
Can I use these frames with paper/posters?
Yes, but you’d have to first mount your artwork on a board or panel.
How do I attach my art to these frames??
We provide metal L-brackets and screws only for frames with a 13/16" and with a 1.5" rabbet. Those frames are meant for panels and canvases thick enough to be screwed to the frame. We don't include hardware with the 5/16" rabbet frames. Those frames are meant for panels too thin to be screwed on to the frame. To attach such thin panels to these frames you will need either glue or double-sided tape or velcro circles or tape. If you want to use glue, the choice of glue will depend on the material of your panels. Wood glue should be a good choice for most anything, including paper. E6000 Adhesive is another good choice. For foam core and other such lighter materials, we use ATG tape. You may be able to use other kinds of double-sided tape as well. Home Depot and Michael’s both sell some strong and thin, two-sided tapes that will work nicely. Finally, some customers report good results with velcro circles and tape you can buy at craft stores. Some customers are using a product called “Elmers Poster Tack” to attach their panels into the frames. It’s easy to use and totally re-usable.
Do these frames come with hanging hardware?
No.
Can I get these frames unassembled?
No. We don't sell our Panel Frames unassembled.
What's the difference between Doug Fir and Maple?
Maple is lighter in color and less grainy than the Doug Fir. It’s also more consistent in appearance from stick to stick. The Doug Fir is reddish in color, typically more grainy, and is more variable in appearance. The Doug Fir is also lighter in weight than the maple; the maple is a harder wood. The Doug Fir is more rustic/warmer. The maple is more muted and slightly heavier.
Do I need to "finish" your unfinished frames?
You don’t really have to do anything to them. You are of course welcome to treat them as you like. They're lightly sanded, with no coating of any kind. If you want simply to protect the wood and to enhance the color and grain, we have many customers reporting success with products like Danish Oil, Watco Oil, Surfix festool oil, Feed-N-Wax Wood Preserver, Minwax wood conditioner and sealer, Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish, and Varathane natural stain. Our only recommendation is to try out the technique first on an inconspicuous part of the frame (inside back). We can include some scraps of the moulding for you to experiment with. Just put a note in the comments field at checkout asking for some.
Can I get samples of your frames?
Yes. We can include up to 3 samples with your next order, free of charge. Just put a note in the comments field at the end of check-out saying, “Please send me corner samples of [A], [B], and [C]. I understand that I can get 3 samples free of charge."
Alternatively, you can place an order just for samples. We'd charge $5 per corner sample, plus shipping. Please email us what you’d like samples of and your shipping address for a quote.
Can I mix colors/finishes?
You can mix colors for any size, with the possible exception of 36x36”, 30x48”, and 24x60", provided the order is for a pack of the most expensive color in the pack. So, for example, you could buy a 6 pack of 11x14” gold frames and ask us to send 3 gold and 3 Doug fir. The items being substituted must not be more expensive than the ones they are replacing. You would do that by putting a note in the comments field at the end of check-out about the exact mix of colors/finishes in your pack. In the case of color substitutions for 36x36”, 30x48”, and 24x60", we may be able to accommodate you. It depends on the particulars. Please email us to confirm.
Can I mix sizes?
You may be able to. It depends on the size of the order and on whether or not the particular combination of sizes can be packaged easily for safe transit. Please email us first to make sure the combination you have in mind is doable.
Can I buy a single frame?
We sell singles only when they are part of a larger order comprising several frames. If that’s your situation, then please email us the entire list of frames you’d like to order, along with your shipping address, for a complete quote. If you purchase a 3 or 6-pack (as the case might be for the particular size), you can request us to mix and match colors provided the order is for a pack of the most expensive color in the pack. So, for example, you could order a 3-pack of 24x24” 2.5” deep Walnut frames and ask us to send you 2 Walnut and 1 Maple frame. The items being substituted must not be more expensive than the ones they are replacing. You would do that by putting a note in the comments field at the end of checkout about the exact mix of colors/finishes in your pack.
How do I center my art in the frame?
If the canvas is not snug in the frame and you need help centering the canvas in the frame, you can use thin strips of cardboard, say about 1-2” wide, as spacers. Put the strips on all 4 sides, between the canvas and the frame, to even out the spacing. Depending on the thickness of your cardboard, you may need to glue together a couple or three layers to get the spacing right. Once the canvas is snug, turn it over and place the brackets in the back and mark each hole with a pen. You can then make small pilot holes with a thin nail before driving the screws. Finally, make sure your canvas is square. You can confirm by comparing the diagonals.
How do I repair open corners?
Repair is pretty easy, if you have the right tools. You need a corner clamp and some wood glue. You can get those at home depot and on Amazon. A clamp costs about $10-$15. It’s good to have one around the studio in case of accidents. Here is a set of 4 on Amazon for about $18, (https://a.co/d/1tj5xnN). Just work the glue in to the open joint with your finger-tip, clamp, wipe clean excess glue and wait overnight. For larger sizes, you can further re-enforce the corners from the back with flat L-brackets. Alternatively, you can drive thin nails with small heads from the outside edges of the frame and then cover the pin holes with some wood filler.
What do I do if the frame is too tight?
If the canvases are a little bigger than the nominal size, you may still be able to salvage things. There are a couple of potential solutions. One involves making the frames a little bigger. The other, making the canvases a little smaller. If the fit is close, you may be able to sand down the frame a bit right at the problem spot to make more room. Alternatively, if the paintings have bulges in the corners where the canvas is folded and tucked, you can try to hammer the bulges down to make them flatter. If that doesn’t work, you can cut open the folds and cut out some of the excess canvas. You can then glue the seam back up.
What do I do if my canvas is sticking out of the frame a little?
Check to see if there are bulges in the back of the canvas where the fabric is folded and tucked in the corners. You can cut open the folds and cut out some of the excess canvas. You can then glue or staple the seam back up.
Can I use these frames with paper/posters?
Yes, but you’d have to first mount your artwork on a board or panel.
How do I attach my art to these frames??
We provide metal L-brackets and screws only for frames with a 13/16" and with a 1.5" rabbet. Those frames are meant for panels and canvases thick enough to be screwed to the frame. We don't include hardware with the 5/16" rabbet frames. Those frames are meant for panels too thin to be screwed on to the frame. To attach such thin panels to these frames you will need either glue or double-sided tape or velcro circles or tape. If you want to use glue, the choice of glue will depend on the material of your panels. Wood glue should be a good choice for most anything, including paper. E6000 Adhesive is another good choice. For foam core and other such lighter materials, we use ATG tape. You may be able to use other kinds of double-sided tape as well. Home Depot and Michael’s both sell some strong and thin, two-sided tapes that will work nicely. Finally, some customers report good results with velcro circles and tape you can buy at craft stores. Some customers are using a product called “Elmers Poster Tack” to attach their panels into the frames. It’s easy to use and totally re-usable.
Do these frames come with hanging hardware?
No.
Can I get these frames unassembled?
No. We don't sell our Panel Frames unassembled.
What's the difference between Doug Fir and Maple?
Maple is lighter in color and less grainy than the Doug Fir. It’s also more consistent in appearance from stick to stick. The Doug Fir is reddish in color, typically more grainy, and is more variable in appearance. The Doug Fir is also lighter in weight than the maple; the maple is a harder wood. The Doug Fir is more rustic/warmer. The maple is more muted and slightly heavier.
Do I need to "finish" your unfinished frames?
You don’t really have to do anything to them. You are of course welcome to treat them as you like. They're lightly sanded, with no coating of any kind. If you want simply to protect the wood and to enhance the color and grain, we have many customers reporting success with products like Danish Oil, Watco Oil, Surfix festool oil, Feed-N-Wax Wood Preserver, Minwax wood conditioner and sealer, Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish, and Varathane natural stain. Our only recommendation is to try out the technique first on an inconspicuous part of the frame (inside back). We can include some scraps of the moulding for you to experiment with. Just put a note in the comments field at checkout asking for some.
Can I get samples of your frames?
Yes. We can include up to 3 samples with your next order, free of charge. Just put a note in the comments field at the end of check-out saying, “Please send me corner samples of [A], [B], and [C]. I understand that I can get 3 samples free of charge."
Alternatively, you can place an order just for samples. We'd charge $5 per corner sample, plus shipping. Please email us what you’d like samples of and your shipping address for a quote.
Can I mix colors/finishes?
You can mix colors for any size, with the possible exception of 36x36”, 30x48”, and 24x60", provided the order is for a pack of the most expensive color in the pack. So, for example, you could buy a 6 pack of 11x14” gold frames and ask us to send 3 gold and 3 Doug fir. The items being substituted must not be more expensive than the ones they are replacing. You would do that by putting a note in the comments field at the end of check-out about the exact mix of colors/finishes in your pack. In the case of color substitutions for 36x36”, 30x48”, and 24x60", we may be able to accommodate you. It depends on the particulars. Please email us to confirm.
Can I mix sizes?
You may be able to. It depends on the size of the order and on whether or not the particular combination of sizes can be packaged easily for safe transit. Please email us first to make sure the combination you have in mind is doable.
Can I buy a single frame?
We sell singles only when they are part of a larger order comprising several frames. If that’s your situation, then please email us the entire list of frames you’d like to order, along with your shipping address, for a complete quote. If you purchase a 3 or 6-pack (as the case might be for the particular size), you can request us to mix and match colors provided the order is for a pack of the most expensive color in the pack. So, for example, you could order a 3-pack of 24x24” 2.5” deep Walnut frames and ask us to send you 2 Walnut and 1 Maple frame. The items being substituted must not be more expensive than the ones they are replacing. You would do that by putting a note in the comments field at the end of checkout about the exact mix of colors/finishes in your pack.
How do I center my art in the frame?
If the canvas is not snug in the frame and you need help centering the canvas in the frame, you can use thin strips of cardboard, say about 1-2” wide, as spacers. Put the strips on all 4 sides, between the canvas and the frame, to even out the spacing. Depending on the thickness of your cardboard, you may need to glue together a couple or three layers to get the spacing right. Once the canvas is snug, turn it over and place the brackets in the back and mark each hole with a pen. You can then make small pilot holes with a thin nail before driving the screws. Finally, make sure your canvas is square. You can confirm by comparing the diagonals.
How do I repair open corners?
Repair is pretty easy, if you have the right tools. You need a corner clamp and some wood glue. You can get those at home depot and on Amazon. A clamp costs about $10-$15. It’s good to have one around the studio in case of accidents. Here is a set of 4 on Amazon for about $18, (https://a.co/d/1tj5xnN). Just work the glue in to the open joint with your finger-tip, clamp, wipe clean excess glue and wait overnight. For larger sizes, you can further re-enforce the corners from the back with flat L-brackets. Alternatively, you can drive thin nails with small heads from the outside edges of the frame and then cover the pin holes with some wood filler.
What do I do if the frame is too tight?
If the canvases are a little bigger than the nominal size, you may still be able to salvage things. There are a couple of potential solutions. One involves making the frames a little bigger. The other, making the canvases a little smaller. If the fit is close, you may be able to sand down the frame a bit right at the problem spot to make more room. Alternatively, if the paintings have bulges in the corners where the canvas is folded and tucked, you can try to hammer the bulges down to make them flatter. If that doesn’t work, you can cut open the folds and cut out some of the excess canvas. You can then glue the seam back up.
What do I do if my canvas is sticking out of the frame a little?
Check to see if there are bulges in the back of the canvas where the fabric is folded and tucked in the corners. You can cut open the folds and cut out some of the excess canvas. You can then glue or staple the seam back up.
